Services

Fence installation in Nieuwegein

A fence that stands straight and stays straight. New, replacing an old one, or repairing part of it. In timber or composite, with a gate if you want one.

I put up fences in timber or composite and set the posts in concrete. If there is already a fence that leans or has rotted, I take it out and put a new one in, with posts, panels and a gate if needed. Repairing individual parts is possible too. I put up a shed or summerhouse at the same time if you want one.

What I do for you

I work in Nieuwegein and Utrecht, and for a bigger job further out into the region.

Fence installation by DZRMS, completed work in Nieuwegein

How I go about it

  • A new fence in timber or composite, with the posts set in concrete, so it stands straight and stays straight.
  • An old, leaning or rotten fence out and a new one in, with posts, panels and a gate if needed.
  • Repairing individual parts when the rest of the fence is still sound.
  • A composite fence if you do not want to paint or sand.
  • A gate, shed or summerhouse at the same time.
  • First a look at what is in the boundary line and how the material gets into the garden, then one price for the whole job.

When you have a fence put up, you look at the panels first. That is the part that decides least whether it is still standing in ten years. What happens underground and how the old fence comes out weigh more. The work in the rest of the garden, from ground to paving and trees, is on the page about garden landscaping and paving.

Putting up a new fence or replacing the old one

A new fence on an empty boundary is the simplest case. I set out the line, place the posts in concrete and fit the panels between them. If there is already a fence, the job starts with taking it out: the panels, the posts and whatever of them sits in the ground come out and are taken away. Only then does the new one go in, on the same line or a better one.

What a garden looks like afterwards you can see in the back garden with a new fence, a shed and a tiled path. There the panels are horizontal boards and hydrangeas stand against the fence. In another garden an old timber fence came out and a new timber fence with a gate went in. At a third fence I levelled the garden after the posts were in.

Repair or replace

A fence that leans seldom has bad panels. The problem is in the posts, where the wood meets the ground. Push a screwdriver into the post just above the ground. If it goes through the wood without effort, the post has gone.

If it is a few posts and the panels are still good, I can replace the posts and leave the panels. So repairing parts is possible. If the panels are weathered as well, or most of the posts are soft, a new fence is better. New panels on old posts is money spent at the wrong end. I will tell you which of the two I would do once I have seen it.

Putting up a composite fence

Composite is the wood look without painting, sanding or replacing. I fit it on aluminium or timber posts, in anthracite, grey or wood tones, and I set the posts in concrete so the fence is still straight after a storm. It is heavier than timber and it expands in the sun.

You choose timber if you like the material and a bit of upkeep does not bother you. Hardwood lasts considerably longer than pine. You choose composite if you do not want to think about it once it is up. Neither is better. It depends on how much work you want to have later.

A gate, shed or summerhouse as well

A gate hangs from one post, and that post takes the strain for years. That is why we decide on the gate before the posts go in, not after. If you want a gate that differs from a standard size, that is custom carpentry.

I put up sheds and summerhouses too. If you do that at the same time as the fence, the fence connects straight to the spot where the summerhouse will stand.

Before I come to measure

Where the boundary really runs, how high you may go and what you agree with your neighbours is covered in the article on what a fence costs and what to settle beforehand. Read it before you make an appointment. Then you know what to find out, and why I do not quote a price per metre.

How it works

Send me a few photos of the garden and the current fence. I come and look, walk the line and dig a trial hole to see what is in the ground. After that you get one price for the whole job, with a note of what is not in it.

If a border is going in along the new fence, we look at a planting plan together, so the plants suit the sun it will get. If it is a single loose panel or a hinge that is broken, that is a small job and not a new fence. That falls under handyman and maintenance.

Want to know what I would do in your garden? Send a message through the contact page.

What sets the price

With a fence the money is not in the panels. It sits in what is under and beside the line: the ground, the corners, the old fence that has to go and how easy the garden is to get into. That is why I come and look and dig a trial hole before I name a price. What you get after that is one price for the whole job, with a note of what is not in it.

What it comes down to

  • The length and height of the fence and the number of corners and end points, because each corner takes more time than a straight metre.
  • What is in the boundary line: old foundations, rubble, a concrete edge or a cable. That decides whether I can use the auger or whether it becomes hand digging.
  • Timber or composite and which type of post goes with it. Composite is heavier and usually needs posts from the same system.
  • Whether an old fence has to come out, and whether the footings or buried posts have to come out too.
  • A gate or a shed at the same time.
  • How the material gets into the garden: through a gate with a wheelbarrow or through the house.

What is included

  • Measuring up in the garden itself, with a trial hole to see what is under the topsoil.
  • Setting out the line and placing the posts, in concrete.
  • Fitting the panels, including the cutting and fitting at corners and obstacles.
  • Taking out and carrying away the old fence if it has to go.
  • Finishing and clearing up, with the waste taken away.

What comes on top

  • The material. Who supplies the material, we agree beforehand.
  • Fees and costs of a permit for a high boundary structure, if your municipality requires one.
  • Moving or repairing cables and pipes that turn out to be in the way.
  • Skip hire and a street permit if the skip has to stand on the road.

Send a few photos of the situation and say briefly what you want. Then you hear from me what it will cost in your case, itemised and with no strings attached.

Also in these towns

I work out of Nieuwegein and come to the whole region. These are the towns with a page of their own.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a permit to have a fence put up?

Sometimes. It depends on the height and the position: in a front garden other rules apply than behind the house, and your municipality can set its own requirements in the omgevingsplan (its local land-use plan). Check the Omgevingsloket (the government's online permit portal) for your address or ask your municipality. If the fence stands on the boundary line, it belongs to you and your neighbour together and you decide together. The knowledge article on costs explains how to prepare that conversation.

Timber or composite for a fence, which should I choose?

Timber is cheaper to buy and needs upkeep. Composite does not need paint or sanding, but it is heavy and it expands in the sun, so the posts and the fitting have to be built for that. Choose timber if you like the material and a bit of maintenance does not bother you. Choose composite if you do not want to think about it once it is up. Hardwood lasts considerably longer than pine.

How long does a timber fence last?

That depends on the timber and above all on the posts. The weak spot is always the same: where the wood meets the ground. Pine lasts a number of seasons, hardwood a lot longer. That is why I set the posts in concrete, so the fence stays straight even after a storm.

Can a leaning fence be repaired or does it need replacing?

Often the problem sits in a few posts and not in the panels. Push a screwdriver into the post just above the ground. If it goes into the wood without effort, the post has gone. If the panels are still good, I can replace the posts and leave the panels. If the panels are weathered too, or most of the posts are soft, a new fence is the better choice. I will tell you which once I have seen it.

Can you also put a gate in the fence?

Yes. A gate hangs from one post, and that post takes the strain for years. With a new fence we therefore decide on the gate before the posts go in. If it comes later on an existing fence, I first check whether the post it will hang from can take it.

Does the old fence have to come out first, and do you take it away?

Yes, I take it out, with the posts and whatever sits in the ground, and I take it away. Treated wood does not belong with ordinary building waste. Taking it out is a separate item in my quote.

Can I put up a fence myself?

A short, straight fence in soft ground is doable. It gets difficult with old foundations, a change in level, corners and a gate. Setting out the line and getting the posts deep enough decide whether it is still straight in a few years. If you are not sure, send a photo of the garden and I will tell you whether you can do it yourself.

What customers say

“I am very happy with how Dido carried out the work. I had a leak and mold problem in my kitchen sink. He replaced the faucet, sink, and parts of the installation. The result turned out very nicely. Dido is very knowledgeable and very solution-oriented. I will definitely hire him again for other jobs.”

Translated from Dutch

JHJosje Hoekveld
“An honest businessman who is happy to think along with you. During the renovation he also helped with other small things he hadn't come for. Recommended”

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WReview via Werkspot
“Super fast service and very neatly done. I am very satisfied.”

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NWerkspot user from Nieuwegein

Tell me briefly what is going on

Three short steps. I look at it and call you back to talk it through.

Step 1 of 3: who you are and how I reach you
Step 2 of 3: what needs doing

The more concrete you write it down, the better I can judge what it is going to cost.

Step 3 of 3: where you are

I would rather give you a call. Your email address is only there in case I cannot reach you.

Want this job done?

Tell me briefly what is going on. I talk the approach through with you and give you a price you can build on.

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