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Planting plan for your garden in Nieuwegein
Which plants suit your soil, the sun and the time you want to spend on the garden. With seven years of agronomy I choose plants that keep growing there.
A planting plan is the choice of which plant goes where, and why there. I spent seven years in agronomy, so I look first at your soil, the sun and the water and pick plants that keep growing in that spot. You get advice on upkeep with it. Laying artificial grass is possible too, if you want it.
What I do for you
I work in Nieuwegein and Utrecht, and for a bigger job further out into the region.

How I go about it
- Plants chosen for your soil, sun, shade and moisture.
- Heavy clay asks for something different from sand, and a north-facing wall for something different from full sun.
- Advice on upkeep: what to prune and when, what to leave alone and what to keep an eye on.
- Taking into account how much time you want to spend on the garden.
- The borders planted with the plants we choose.
- Laying artificial grass where you do not want to look after a lawn.
With a planting plan you choose which plant goes where. The work is in the question of why there. A border often disappoints because the plant did not suit the spot. The rest of the garden work, from paving to trees, is on the page about garden landscaping and paving.
Soil first, then the plant
Before I went into construction, I spent seven years in agronomy. That is where I learned to read the ground: which soil sits where, what holds water and which plant takes hold in which spot. I bring that knowledge into the garden.
In practice that means I dig a hole. Clay sticks to the spade and holds water. Sand runs through your fingers and dries out in summer. Then I look at the sun: how long it stays on the spot and what a wall or a tree leaves of it. A border by a north wall is a different border from a corner in full sun, even if they are three metres apart.
What I choose for each spot
For each spot I choose which plant goes there and tell you why. I look at how tall and wide it gets when fully grown, because a shrub that gets too big is a pruning job in three years. I look at when it flowers and what it does in winter.
A garden that shows something all year starts with the plants that stay: evergreen shrubs, a hedge or a tree. Around them go perennials, ornamental grasses and bulbs. A few kinds in larger groups look less busy than one of everything, and they are easier to look after.
Advice on upkeep
With the plants we choose, you get advice on what to do with them. What to prune and when. What to leave alone. In the first season new plants need more water than later. And how to keep weeds in check without standing in the border every weekend. What a low-maintenance garden really asks of you is in the article on laying out a low-maintenance garden.
Pruning is a craft of its own. With some species you cannot cut back into old wood, because nothing grows back from it. You can see that kind of garden at topiary and tree work in a front garden, where conifers were brought back into shape. If you would rather hand over the upkeep, I do garden maintenance per visit or a few times a year: pruning, weeding, keeping the borders tidy and taking the garden waste away.
From choice to border
I lay the borders as well, so the plants we choose also end up in the ground. Who supplies the material, we agree beforehand. What that looks like you can see at the paving with paths and borders around the house: brick paths, white gravel as an edge and new planting in the borders. If a new fence is going in as well, I take it into account, because it decides where the shade falls. How that work goes is described under having a fence installed.
Laying artificial grass
If grass is difficult in a spot, for example in a small back garden where it will not grow anyway, I can also lay artificial grass. The work is in the base: old soil out, sand levelled, weed membrane underneath and the grass laid tight, so water can drain away.
It has drawbacks. In full sun artificial grass gets hot, and the soil life underneath has a hard time. I would rather say so up front.
How it works
Send me a few photos of the garden and tell me how much time you want to spend on it. I come and look, dig a hole and check the sun. After that I choose the plants and lay the borders. If you have a corner where nothing will grow, I will tell you what the cause is.
Want to know what suits your garden? Send a message through the contact page.
What sets the price
With planting the price is not in the plants themselves. It is in the soil they have to go into and in the size you plant them at. So I look first and name a price afterwards. What you get is one price for the work, with a note of what is not in it.
What it comes down to
- The area to be planted, and whether it is one border or the whole garden.
- What is in the soil and what has to be done before planting: improving it or drainage.
- The size of the plants. A mature shrub takes more carrying than a small plant that still has to grow.
- Whether old planting, stumps or garden waste have to go first.
- How easy the garden is to get plants, soil and waste in and out of.
- How much upkeep you want to do yourself. A garden that should need little work takes more preparation at the start.
What is included
- Looking at the garden and digging a hole to see the soil.
- For each spot, the choice of plants, matched to the sun, the soil and the time you want to spend.
- Advice on the upkeep of what is planted.
- Laying the borders with the chosen plants.
- Taking away the garden waste that comes with the work.
What comes on top
- Irrigation and garden lighting.
- Upkeep after the work is done, such as the first pruning season, unless we agree it.
- Paving, fencing and tree removal, which I price separately.
- A felling permit or other fees, if your municipality requires them.
- The plants and the soil. Who supplies the material, we agree beforehand.
Send a few photos of the situation and say briefly what you want. Then you hear from me what it will cost in your case, itemised and with no strings attached.
Also in these towns
I work out of Nieuwegein and come to the whole region. These are the towns with a page of their own.
Background and cost questions, explained without the sales talk.
Frequently asked questions
What is a planting plan?
It is the choice of which plant goes where, and why there. For each spot I look at the soil, the amount of sun and how wet or dry it is there. Then I choose plants that can cope with that.
What do I need to tell you before you make a plan?
How the garden lies, how much sun it gets, what soil you have if you know, and above all how much time you want to spend on it. That last one decides a lot. Someone who wants to be in the border every weekend gets a different plan from someone who wants to look at it twice a year. I look at the soil myself, by digging a hole.
Which plants suit a north-facing or shady garden?
That depends on how dark it is and on the soil. Under a tree it is drier than you think, and against a north wall there is little sun. There are perennials and shrubs that cope with both, but not the same ones in each place. So I do not give a list here. I look at your corner and pick the plants to match.
How do I get a garden that looks good all year?
By starting with what is still standing in winter: evergreen shrubs and a hedge or a tree give the garden its shape. Around them go perennials, ornamental grasses and bulbs that flower at different times. A few kinds in larger groups look less busy than one of everything, and they are easier to look after.
What does a planting plan cost?
I do not quote figures on this site. What sets the price is the number of square metres, the size of the plants, and what has to be done to the soil before anything can go in. A border with good soil is different work from a corner with compacted soil where drainage has to go in first. I look first and name a price afterwards.
When can I plant?
Usually in autumn or in spring, when it is not freezing and the soil is not waterlogged. Plants in pots can go in for longer, but in a warm summer they need a lot of water. So I plan the planting around the season, even if you want to start earlier.
Can you also lay artificial grass?
If you want it, yes. It is a good choice where grass will not grow anyway or where you do not want to mow. It has drawbacks too: it gets hot in full sun and the soil life underneath has a hard time. The work is in the base: old soil out, sand levelled, weed membrane underneath and the grass laid tight, so water can drain away.
Featured work
The proof is in and around the house.
What customers say
“I am very happy with how Dido carried out the work. I had a leak and mold problem in my kitchen sink. He replaced the faucet, sink, and parts of the installation. The result turned out very nicely. Dido is very knowledgeable and very solution-oriented. I will definitely hire him again for other jobs.”
Translated from Dutch
“An honest businessman who is happy to think along with you. During the renovation he also helped with other small things he hadn't come for. Recommended”
Translated from Dutch
“Super fast service and very neatly done. I am very satisfied.”
Translated from Dutch
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I am on the tools myself, so it can take a few hours before I reply. If you are in a hurry, feel free to call.
Call me: 06 27 74 57 05Want this job done?
Tell me briefly what is going on. I talk the approach through with you and give you a price you can build on.
Need this too?
I do more than just this. Feel free to combine jobs in one visit.
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- Facade claddingNew exterior facade cladding in wood, composite, plastic or brick slips, on a batten frame that lets the wall breathe.View this service
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